Affichage des articles dont le libellé est notch collar. Afficher tous les articles
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est notch collar. Afficher tous les articles

lundi 4 avril 2011

Hooded pea jacket Burda 08-2009-142 (3) Poche à Patte Montée

Col tailleur

I know I named this post "Poche à Patte Montée" approximately translating "single welt pocket" and the 1st photo shows a notched collar. Honestly I could not wait any longer to show you my fist ever real notched collar. I must say I am very proud of it. It took ages to be sewn but if not perfect it still suits my standard for the moment.

And from now on I am switching to French as "chose promise, chose due". 

Suite de mes aventures avec ce caban Burda. 
Comme je le lis souvent au fil de mes promenades sur les blogs de coutures, je ne suis pas la seule à m'y reprendre à plusieurs fois avant de réussir à décrypter les explications des magazines Burda.

Voici donc une illustration de la poche à patte montée telle qu'elle est expliquée pour ce modèle.
Passepoil de la poche bâti
1/ Plier la patte en deux pour superposer ses grands bords, l'endroit à l'extérieur (bâtir)

2/ Piquer la patte endroit contre endroit sur le devant. (piquer très exactement sur la ligne de montage, ni avant, ni au delà)

 3/ Épingler le fond de poche en tissu sur l'autre ligne de montage endroit contre endroit.

 4/ La patte et le fond de poche tissu piqués avant ouverture de la fente.

5/ Fendre dans la longueur entre ces 2 coutures. A chaque extrémité de la fente, entailler en biais vers les extrémités de coutures. Attention à ne pas sectionner la patte et le fond de poche.

6/ Glisser le fond de poche sur l'envers du devant par la fente.

7/ Repasser la couture du fond poche (vue de l'endroit).

8/ Piquer un fond de poche en doublure sur la couture de montage de la patte.     

9/ Les deux fonds de poches sont rabattus sur l'envers.

10/ Replier et glisser sur l'envers les petits triangles, les coudre sur les fonds de poche.

11/ Piquer les fonds de poches l'un sur l'autre.

12/ Repasser sur l'endroit.


les 2 devants avec les poches terminées

Les deux poches montées sur les devants.

samedi 2 avril 2011

Hooded pea jacket Burda 08-2009-142 (2) Interfacing

Suite de mes aventures... le dernière fois j'ai parlé de la doublure. Sur la photo, ci-dessous la voici telle qu'elle se présente prêt à être posée.

To start where I stopped last time, here's a picture of the finished lining.

Now, though the jacket is not finished I am progressing slowly but steadily.
I am not born organized, consequently my progression is daily interrupted by some amendments of my basic plans or by some book consulting or some googling concerning a sequence that I am not mastering and that Burda fails to explain clearly.

For today, let's concentrate on  interfacing. Parlons de l'entoilage.

I used a fusible tricot interfacing suitable for medium weight fabric with some stretch.

To pre-shrink interfacing, I soaked it in hot (not boiling hot, but tab hot) clear water for about 20 minutes and let it dry.

Méthode pour thermocoller l'entoilage : ( en anglais uniquement et je m'en excuse, mais je n'ai pas beaucoup de temps. Si vous voulez la traduction envoyez-moi un mail)
I think that I found a way to fuse inferfacing that works and can be used with most fusable interfacings.
Once the interfacing has been pre-shrunk and is dry, set your iron on wool.
Lay the piece of fabric to interface on the board, wrong side up and steam iron it with as much as steam as possible.
Lay the interfacing on it making sure to turn the glued side on the fabric.
Water spray it with a  spray bottle, it helps to set the interfacing in place.
Cover the whole thing with a damp thin pressing cloth and strart pressing from the middle.
I said pressing, not ironing. Lift your iron as you move towards the edges overlapping where  you were and counting to 10 each time.
Once you've done the whole piece turn it upside down. I mean the right side face up and do the same overlapping pressing movements. Make sure the fabric is protected by a cloth. You may use the steam of your iron too.
Last, lay the interfaced piece of fabric rest until it is thouroughly  cool.
Admire you perfectly sealed interfacing with no bubbles.

This works for me but make sure to always test before on a scrap of the fabric you want to use.

For the most part, I followed Burda's instructions concerning the pieces to interface.
The change I made, were adding some more interfacing in the shoulder area on both of the front and back pieces and around the back neck area. I also interfaced the upper collar, change the undercollar (this point will be fully dealt with later on).
entoilage devant

All hems are interfaced.
entoilage dos
When interfacing a hem, make sure to fuse the whole hem allowance and about 3/8 in. above the hemline. (Thank you Kathleen)

I also added an extra layer of interfacing in the lapel area as recommended by my tailoring guide for a soft roll line.
Then the roll line was steamed without pressing a crease with a damp terry towel tucked under as a pad. To permanently set the lapel, I let it dry overnight.

Interfacing is certainly not the most exiting part in the process of making a somewhat tailored garment, but it certainly is crucial though not visible.

To make it less tedious you have to try blockfusing. I owe to loyalty to credit Sherry for this input and if you never heard of blockfusing you must read her fantastic tutorial. For my part I block fused the upper collar and the facings.
Upper collar blockfusing 1

That's all for today folks.
Hopefuly reading me has been helpful and not to tiresome.
This jacket gives me a lot of work and pleasure too. I use this blog as diary. Plus, it makes me practicing my English.
The problem with English and the funny part, is that the more I develop my knowledge of sewing vocabulary, the more I forget about French terms. But that's another story.

jeudi 31 mars 2011

No image post

Though I don't like to write a post without any illustration, I'm feeling the urge to say, yes I am still here and sewing.
I am fighting with DS pea jacket. It's turning out fine but slowly.

I am trying my best with the notch collar. Pictures have been taken, but I spend too much time sewing and searching for tips and different methods to sew a notch collar.
I finally made the decision to use this tutorial
I am quite anxious to master the collar as it the focus point in a jacket IMO.
I must say that never before have I realy been so conscious of the importance of what is called the "turn of cloth".

More on this later...