Affichage des articles dont le libellé est interfacing. Afficher tous les articles
Affichage des articles dont le libellé est interfacing. Afficher tous les articles

mardi 8 novembre 2011

En-cours chemise Burda

Le temps passe et cela fait un mois que je n'ai rien publié. Ce doit être la saison, et je n'avance pas dans ce que je fais.
En cours et sur le point d'être finie, une chemise à plastron trouvée dans le HS Burda + PE 2010. Le modèle est un mix des patrons 423 et 425 dont vous avez un aperçu ci-dessus.
J'ai choisi cette chemise décontractée pour rester à la maison et la coupe est confortable. J'ai pris plaisir à réaliser les plis du plastrons.

pour le col j'ai testé l'entoilage  Pro-Woven Shirt Crisp Fusible de Pam que je recommande chaudement.
J'ai pris les photos pour tester la longueur que je vais laisser comme cela. Le tissu bleu/gris m'a été donné par ma belle-sœur. C'est un synthétique avec une armure qui lui donne l'aspect du lin en plus brillant. Je ne suis pas trop fan de son aspect brillant mais il a l'avantage de bien se travailler et cela me permet d'élargir ma garde-robe à peu de frais. Je ne vais pas faire la difficile pour rester à la maison.
More on this later.
Happy Sewing.

samedi 2 avril 2011

Hooded pea jacket Burda 08-2009-142 (2) Interfacing

Suite de mes aventures... le dernière fois j'ai parlé de la doublure. Sur la photo, ci-dessous la voici telle qu'elle se présente prêt à être posée.

To start where I stopped last time, here's a picture of the finished lining.

Now, though the jacket is not finished I am progressing slowly but steadily.
I am not born organized, consequently my progression is daily interrupted by some amendments of my basic plans or by some book consulting or some googling concerning a sequence that I am not mastering and that Burda fails to explain clearly.

For today, let's concentrate on  interfacing. Parlons de l'entoilage.

I used a fusible tricot interfacing suitable for medium weight fabric with some stretch.

To pre-shrink interfacing, I soaked it in hot (not boiling hot, but tab hot) clear water for about 20 minutes and let it dry.

Méthode pour thermocoller l'entoilage : ( en anglais uniquement et je m'en excuse, mais je n'ai pas beaucoup de temps. Si vous voulez la traduction envoyez-moi un mail)
I think that I found a way to fuse inferfacing that works and can be used with most fusable interfacings.
Once the interfacing has been pre-shrunk and is dry, set your iron on wool.
Lay the piece of fabric to interface on the board, wrong side up and steam iron it with as much as steam as possible.
Lay the interfacing on it making sure to turn the glued side on the fabric.
Water spray it with a  spray bottle, it helps to set the interfacing in place.
Cover the whole thing with a damp thin pressing cloth and strart pressing from the middle.
I said pressing, not ironing. Lift your iron as you move towards the edges overlapping where  you were and counting to 10 each time.
Once you've done the whole piece turn it upside down. I mean the right side face up and do the same overlapping pressing movements. Make sure the fabric is protected by a cloth. You may use the steam of your iron too.
Last, lay the interfaced piece of fabric rest until it is thouroughly  cool.
Admire you perfectly sealed interfacing with no bubbles.

This works for me but make sure to always test before on a scrap of the fabric you want to use.

For the most part, I followed Burda's instructions concerning the pieces to interface.
The change I made, were adding some more interfacing in the shoulder area on both of the front and back pieces and around the back neck area. I also interfaced the upper collar, change the undercollar (this point will be fully dealt with later on).
entoilage devant

All hems are interfaced.
entoilage dos
When interfacing a hem, make sure to fuse the whole hem allowance and about 3/8 in. above the hemline. (Thank you Kathleen)

I also added an extra layer of interfacing in the lapel area as recommended by my tailoring guide for a soft roll line.
Then the roll line was steamed without pressing a crease with a damp terry towel tucked under as a pad. To permanently set the lapel, I let it dry overnight.

Interfacing is certainly not the most exiting part in the process of making a somewhat tailored garment, but it certainly is crucial though not visible.

To make it less tedious you have to try blockfusing. I owe to loyalty to credit Sherry for this input and if you never heard of blockfusing you must read her fantastic tutorial. For my part I block fused the upper collar and the facings.
Upper collar blockfusing 1

That's all for today folks.
Hopefuly reading me has been helpful and not to tiresome.
This jacket gives me a lot of work and pleasure too. I use this blog as diary. Plus, it makes me practicing my English.
The problem with English and the funny part, is that the more I develop my knowledge of sewing vocabulary, the more I forget about French terms. But that's another story.